Our hotel room in Siem Reap had a lot of toads hanging out by the door.
Angkor Wat, 6:37am, 03/28/07
Bayon Temple, Angkor Thom
Beng Melea was once a temple until trees took it over.
We climbed into the center of the temple by crawling through a small crevice between fallen stones avoiding fire ants along the way.
We went to Thailand's largest supermarket. Ken bought David some t-shirts with food on them. As we were checking out, there was a troupe of 10 year olds dancing in gold body suits by the checkout counter. When they finished, nobody clapped for them except Ken and I.
I wrote this quickly on the plane and I think it captures well the state I was in leaving
Manila:
Talking to Gina, my Cebu Pacific Flight 5J 803 seatmate, has made me think about what it means
to get "ripped off." Gina's knowledge of the scams and confidence tricks of Manila has
made what happened the past week a little more clear to me. I was alone, in an area where people prey upon
naive travelers like myself, and through a coordinated series of events, was relieved of
several hundred dollars through what seemed like chance. Once could say that I was "ripped
off" because my money had been taken, unbeknownst to me. Adding to that, the manner in which my party absconded
made the offense seem more egregious. The problem I have with saying I was ripped off was that I had such an enjoyable time. I feel
betrayed, yes, but I also feel the betrayal wasn't personal, simply business. My experience
still felt authentic, even more so than if I had gone traveling by myself through the
Philippines, because I was traveling with locals on vacation, albiet local con artists
on vacation. They were living their lives, partly financed by me, but I got to live it with them.
Would I say that I got "ripped off" if I had purchased some packaged tour where I was
lead along to a series of generic tourist destinations where no locals would ever go?
In that instance I would have given my money to someone, and unbeknownst to me, I wouldn't
have had an understanding of Filipino life, would be contrary to my intentions. Is a
roulette player getting "ripped off" when, unbeknownst to him, he is probablistically
subject to being fleeced? It is also against his will that his money get taken from him, but
I think few would say he was being "ripped off." I think what it comes down to is a matter of value. The
gambler may know he is predisposed to having his money taken from him, despite the fact
that he plays with the intention of winning money, but there is a certain value in the game
itself; the thrill and excitement of winning big outweighs the disappointment of losing.
Similarly, I think my experience this past week has taught me that there is a certain
value in the game I was involved in, and like the gambler, I valued this idea of travleing with
these people, eating the fod they cooked for me, singing karaoke, and dancing with toothless
old ladies more than the money that was taken from me. However, what was most bothersome
was the betrayal of trust I had in these people, and as a result all people from here on
out in these types of situations. That sucked, and made me want to go home, where I have
more control of situations like these.
In any case, I flew from Manila to Singapore yesterday, slept in the airport with these
two Thai guys I met on the shuttle, and have gone on a day trip to Kuala Lumpur with them.
Again trusting strangers, which may be a bad idea, but as long as I don't lend them any
money, and keep my wits about me, I'll hopefully do okay.
I haven't had access to a computer in a while so a bit of backtracking is due, which I hope to catch up in the next few days. I was in Manila for 24 hours in order to get my
Vietnamese Visa, which was surprisingly un-bureaucratic. I basically showed up with nothing but my passport - no photo or application and they granted me a 15 day tourist visa in less than 10minutes. I also got bit by a two mosquitos waiting (which is the metric by which I measure time elapsing in the Philippines).
I had booked a bus to go to Baguio City, north of Manila for 3pm, so I had some time to kill. I walked around the sketchy docks where there were a lot of men wandering aimlessly, looking for food, prey, or maybe both. I skipped out quickly and went to Rizal Park,
the main park in Manila. I was feeling particularly pensive and decided to write in my journal since I didn't bring my computer when I was approached by a young person whose sex was not immediately distiguishable. He asked
me if I was a student and I said no, and told him I was traveling to Baguio. He said he was from Baguio and that he was taking his relatives there to show them the city since
they had never been. They invited me along. We were to leave at 8pm, but spent the rest of the day in Manila visiting Chinatown, and a karaoke bar. We then went to their other relative in Manila's house, Charity, who also had a karaoke
machine. Seven beers later, I was singing Radiohead's Creep with 50 year old Auntie. I also sang Let it Be, Head Over Heels and Santana/Rob Thomas Smooth.
I've been traveling with this ragtag Filipino family for six days so far, and it has been a blast. They seem to enjoy my company (auntie takes every opportunity to complement me on how small my eyes are), and I find their good nature and
hospitality comforting in a time when I was feeling distressed from traveling. I hope I will be able to write a more detailed entry, with pictures, about my time when I get the opportunity. There have been amazing meals, huge cakes, and penis sandcastles.
I came to Shanghai with the expectation that I would be able to come away with a better understanding of the city, divorced from what I have learned about the city beforehand in classes, books and newspaper articles. The rapidity of physical and economic growth which Shanghai is experiencing at this moment is evident throughout the city where large holes in the skyline and sidewalk frontage portend another skyscraper, luxury apartment complex, or maybe even a TGI Fridays. As expected, the physical growth of the city has created jobs and wealth for some in Shanghai, and has produced a larger group of wealthy people. The past week has found me experiencing this first hand - as an American with American friends and American money, it is impossible to avoid. Which is to say, I have been unable to meet my expectation. I do not have any insights about Shanghai that you have not already read in the New York Times or seen on some MSNBC special. I can only offer you a brief snapshot of what Shanghai is like at this moment, significantly different than all other moments in the past and future.
Various permutations of desiccating meats and clothing
Chi, Ryan and Jason. Chi is the voice of China when it has to speak english. Jason is the voice of America when it has to tell the China about the new X-Men movie.
Anne and Jonny. Anne is an aspiring competitive eater.
Stuffed animal warehouse near Yuyuen Gardens
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Shanghai, China
February 9, 2007
I have been in Shanghai for three days, but this is what I've come away with so far:
- I am able to eat at least six times a day, probably more;
- Just because it has a motor doesn't mean it can't be driven on the sidewalk;
- When you tip people, they get really happy;
- You're not supposed to tip people;
I've spent this past week in our nation's capital at the Transportation Research Board where I had the chance to present some stuff I did while in school. Presenting work is something that sounds provocative and edifying in theory, but when it comes down to it, it's a room full of of nerds asking you esoteric questions in order to prove their knowledge of the subject, or people talking to you more to hear themselves talk than anything else.
The conference wasn't really the objective for me traveling to Washington anyway. Nor was seeing the city, really. In fact I think I might hate Washington DC. The city was designed to be a picturesque monument, a display of national power through physical design, and it achieves that at the expense of its citizens, who kind of suck also. They also have the whiniest license plate slogan ever. "Taxation without representation" the equivalent of a younger sibling complaining that they don't get as much allowance as you. Sure it's sort of unfair, but bellyaching never changes the situation and only results in Dad getting pissed. The real reason I went was to some old friends and to enjoy myself on dime of the University and other publicly funded institutions across America, which I can confidently say with fist up, thumb extended skyward, "mission accomplished." Unfortunately I forgot my camera, but this drawing pretty much outlines everything notable that I did:
Tracklist:
1. Cold War Kids - God Make Up Your Mind (Daytrotter Sessions)
2. Black Lips - Boomerang (Let It Bloom)
3. Bonnie "Prince" Billy - Cursed Sleep (The Letting Go)
4. TV on the Radio - Province (Return to Cookie Mountain)
5. Madlib - The Rock (Movie Scenes Vol. 1-2)
6. Herbert - Birds of a Feather (Scale)
7. Jens Lekman - Julie (Oh You're So Silent Jens)
8. Camera Obscura - Lloyd, I'm Ready to Be Heartbroken (Lets Get Out of this Country)
9. Destroyer - Your Blood (Rubies)
10. The Ohsees - Broken Stems (The Cool Death of the Island Raiders)
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#1 Thing I Hate About Mona Lisa Stiles: Cookie Snobbery
January 9, 2007
New York is an expensive city. Although everyone takes the subway and smokes cigarettes like the bums do in San Francisco, when it comes to buying a beer, all of a sudden we're in Switzerland. I've taken it upon myself to jump on any hint of a deal and have happened upon a New York institution: the alcohol/food happy hour. Sure you have to pay $7 for your beer, but that is a good deal when they're giving you 2 hours worth of all you can eat buffalo wings, or a free 12" pizza with every drink. And so began my Friday. One hour, 2 beers, and 18 wings later, we're on our way to some bar that the guy from The Hold Steady owns. Who? Exactly.
Which of the three will commit a petty crime tonight?
I've seen that look before.
After spending several hours listening to bad indie rock, watching a girl named Bitsy pour drinks down Katherine's throat and failing to top score a broken Erotic Photohunt machine, we decided to leave and go get Canoli at a real life eye-talian bakery. By "go get" I was assuming that meant "go purchase" not "grab and run" and by Canoli I was assuming that meant "small italian pastry" and not "2lb assorted cookie platter" but Katherine was never one to discuss semantics before a meal. Only pictures can tell the rest of this story...
The dance begins
It's as if the guy behind Allison knew we sprinkled rat poison on his cookie
E 14th and 1st Ave is the only place to score some shortbreads
Allison spots Julia Stiles, offers her a cookie, is denied, and proceeds to yell a pretty cogent critique of her role in The Omen
Julia is somewhere in this picture
I threw the last two on the ground after we offered them to a man who stalked around us in a circle and told us that he didn't want to "play our fucking game any more" Game over.
I had been waiting to see the Liars for a while now, and despite my building their live show up in my mind, and verbally to Mike Harkin, they still exceeded all of my expectations. The music on their two most recent albums (which comprised most of the live show) often borders on noise and rhythm experiments, but what really stood out during their live show was the melodic quality of their rhythmic section. Drums and cymbals are tuned to the guitar providing counterpoint, drum sounds provide a segue into key changes, and sometimes they just sound like guitars. During the show I already knew I would not be hearing any better music in 2006.
In the liner notes of Jeff Buckley's Sketches For My Sweetheart the Drunk, an excerpt of his personal writing is included where he proclaims the division between writing songs for an audience and writing songs for one's self, opting to only share songs he writes for his audience. The irony is that the quote is written in the liners notes of a posthumous collection of all the songs that Buckley wrote for himself, thus dishonoring his wishes. Dan Bejar of Destroyer writes songs for himself, creating an internal logic that confounds most. When he sings "Never had a chance/never had to choose/your blood verus your blues" in Your Blood, is he talking about Yer Blues, the album he released before Rubies? And when he says your blood is he talking about Your Blood the song he's singing? Is he speaking directly to the discerning listener who is evaluating his music versus his prior works? Did he write a song about you listening to his song and his position as song writer versus your position as music listener? What the hell is this shit?
In a genre where live performances rarely move (physically or emotionally) crowd or performer, watching Will Oldham live comes close a spiritual experience. The band plays with a certain precision that could wind up sounding soulless if it were not for Oldham's singing which always carries the weight of his lyrics, especially on "Wolf among Wolves" and "Today I was an Evil One." The fact that the show was on Halloween and involved the lead guitarist playing the entire night with a Casper the ghost mask on, and Oldham slowly sweating off all of his tiger face paint made the sermon that much more surreal. My car was broken into during the show, and I lost several hundred dollars worth of stuff, but it all seemed sort of anticlimactic
95.7 MAX-FM rekindled my romance with FM radio. Before MAX, the only radio station I listened to was 560AM KFRC, the home of Oakland A's Baseball, and during non-A's baseball hours, the home of the best oldies in the Bay Area. I spent many hours this past summer interning at the San Francisco Dept of Parking and Traffic, driving my city vehicle, doing traffic counts, listening to Max-FM as well as 96.5 KOIT and Energy 92.7. Although I suspect that MAX-FM is basically just a gigantic randomized playlist, on certain occasions, when the stars are correctly aligned, the track sequencing borders on transcendent. The great thing about MAX is that they usually play the second tier singles of major stars. For instance they will play Cyndi Lauper, but not "Time After Time" but the superior "All Through the Night," "Human" by the Human League rather than "Don't You Want Me Baby."
Discovering Groove Merchant this year has filled a void in my record buying habits. Weekly visits to Amoeba are a necessity in order to peruse used vinyl and find deals, but going to Groove Merchant means dealing with the best hip hop and soul sides you're going to find. I always learn a ton about music, even if I don't end up buying anything, and there is never an air of pretension in the staff. Anyone who has a passing interest in music made before 2000 owes it to themselves to go there.
Christmas evening has been mostly spent scouring the Internet, ripping off HTML code from various web sites in order to get this thing properly working before I have to go to work tomorrow. In the afternoon I went to a relative's house, drank a lot of Coca Cola and failed to help someone successfully burn a copy of Blue Streak on to a DVD-R. The pattern of going to Hercules, CA, ingesting a lot of caffeine and helping people I may be vaguely related to with their consumer electronics has been a Christmas tradition for quite a few years now. Last year, same place, same time, I was put in charge of installing Chinese translation software on a relative's computer so that he could talk with his bride that he may or may not have ordered in China. Apparently their ability to convey their true feelings for one another was stifled by the clumsy, yet universal language of hand gestures and stick figure sketches. Luckily I was successful in installing the software last year, and surely their marriage has blossomed into a full-fledged e-lationship, complete with smiley faces and, if the Chinese language had an alphabet, internet acronyms. As for Blue Streak, I can't say that I'm sorry that I didn't succeed; if it was Bad Boys or even Big Mommas House, that would be another story...
Working backwards in the summary of my Christmas day, the morning was spent watching A Christmas Story with my Father, which is not so much a tradition, but more of a necessity since they play it pretty much all day, and my family watches a lot of TBS. There was a time when A Christmas Story wasn't on 24 hour repeat during the days leading up to Christmas, but I can't remember when that ended. It probably replaced 24 hour repeats of It's a Wonderful Life, or Miracle on 34th St., which begs the question, when will A Christmas Story be replaced, and what will replace it? It seems that they've already begun scaling back on the number of times it's played during the holidays. I think a few years ago they used to play it constantly for at least two weeks.
I am pretty fond of A Christmas Story, despite having watched it so much over the years. It's simultaneously cynical and warm-hearted in regards to Christmas, and that tends to be the attitude I've had towards the Holidays ever since I realized Santa didn't exist, which happened around 1989 when I negotiated a deal with my Father, a couple weeks before Christmas, allowing me to be able to open any presents that I could find hidden around the house. A Christmas Story points out truisms which every child born in post-1970's America can identify with: Santa's fucking creepy, you rarely have the time to articulate what you actually want, and he probably isn't listening to you even if you could.
The warm-hearted moment comes when Ralphie spots a final present amidst the post-Christmas flotsam and jetsam, his much sought after Red Ryder Rifle. My Father attempted to re-create this warm-hearted moment when I was younger, when amidst the post-Christmas flotsam and jetsam, he pointed out that there was one last present to be opened behind our dining table, and suggested that I bring it over. Upon opening, it turned out to be my very own Red Ryder of sorts, except that it was the Anschutz 8002 Compressed Air Rifle, and it wasn't much sought-after by me (I wanted a Super Nintendo), but he didn't seem to mind as he was mostly satisfied with weaving a cinematic reference into our Holidays. Later in the day I brought up the idea of selling the 8002 in order to buy myself a Super Nintendo, but that idea was rejected seeing as it was a gift, and that my Dad had a match at the shooting range that month.
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The inconsistent writings of a man with too much time on his hands
December 23, 2006
This entry mostly serves as a test to see if my limited HTML skills will reveal themselves to the world in the form of drastic formatting errors and/or (unintentionally) poor text positioning. In the future the writing here may be more inspired and entertaining, with the intention being to document my relocation from California to New York, and my upcoming travels (more on that later).
-Brian